Hotel Broadway- The Thespian

Can we love a physical space so much that going away from it or losing access to it is like the demise of a loved one? I think we can. I know I did today, when I heard the news that Hotel Broadway, Asaf Ali Road had closed as a result of the Corona virus pandemic.

I started my career 25 years ago with a company called Old World Hospitality-based out of Hotel Broadway and for years 4/15 A, Asaf Ali Road, New Delhi-110002 was registered address and working office . Because for the first year of our training, we worked out of Broadway.And for ever after, I at least, loved it. And will forever, cherish its memories.

I formed an instant affinity to the hotel. As personalities get shaped, this space tucked away in the heat and dust of kind of Old Delhi played a key role in shaping mine-in making me realise what I liked and didn’t.In the lessons of human interactions I learnt there. What I can articulate very firmly now as a liking for all things kitsch, old and fun started here.

A quaint lobby, a really old elevator and the framed posters of Broadway musicals on each lobby landing going up. The offices in the basement were richly panelled in wood and looked regal to a young 22 year old just starting out. The ground floor had the quirky and fun Chor Bizarre and my zany sense of fun absolutely fell in love with the mismatched concept. Till date, to describe similar scenarios I use the tagline for the restaurant- “Nothing matches, everyhing jells.” To say nothing of the Chaat mobile-our 1927 Vintage Fiat which Mr. Khattar apparently drove down Asaf Ali Road from a garage where it was purchased before it became our “Gaadi”. “Gaadi laga do” is what was said when the chaat had to be laid out on it. We had little brass replicas in which saunf-supari were served after the meal- our “Supari-mobiles”. Guests could buy these and I did too, though not a guest.We played old Hindi film music and that was the icing on the cake for me. A description of CB as we called it, needs an entire blog of its own, but many of you reading this know what I mean when I say it was one of a kind and beautiful with a sense of humour.

“Thugs-The Pub-Not The People” on the first floor was as much fun with the villains of Hollywood and Bollywood looking menacingly at drinkers as they ordered from the funnily written menu- “chote mote chor ucchake”were peanuts and wafers. Right next to it was a Banquet hall-where I remember many many “wazwan”-traditional Kashmiri sit down meals being served.

The main kitchen opened into an exciting lane and it was here that I saw my first t-shirt clad goat-chewing benignly on the rope it was tied with. I was told a complete whopper that our meat supply order is shouted through the door and completed switftly by owner of one such goat. I think I even believed it then!

This verbal tour of Broadway is a bit up-down as I will now take you straight to the terrace, where laundry was done in traditional ways, using several large vats of water-houdis and then drying right there. It also had the lady running the laundry presiding benignly over proceedings and at stray management trainees who landed up there. One could see scores of pigeons doing their flying number in flocks. Eventually, it also housed an updated air-conditioning unit.

The first floor housed our miniscule bakery but the artist running it made the most delectable chocolate truffle cakes ever and so many during festivals, that in hind-sight I know he did have a magic wand. And I am not exaggerating about the deliciousness-ask anyone who ate them.

I had my first taste of Kasmiri food here. The joy of goshtaba and rice with tamatar pyaaz ki chutney are unmatchable. Our menu in Chor Bizarre was also imaginatively named and Sharabi Kababi Tikka Masala -flamed with brandy will remain integral to the taste buds and the flashback of life.We used to urge friends and family to dine here and then pre-decide the entire meal for them, because hello-we knew best!

It is thanks to Broadway that I got to know and then show people Chandni Chowk and Old Delhi. Always ahead of the times, these first heritage walks of the old city were curated and started by us- as in Old World as far back as 1995. These walks took people through the lanes and monuments of Old Delhi and then culminated at Chor Bizarre for a meal. I loved every bit of doing the walks and infact now conduct them on my own. But my learning ground was the hotel and I have gone there often over the past few years, even after I was no longer an employee.

To realise that I can no longer walk in there is heartbreaking for me. A personal loss.

Hotel Broadway is 64 years old. I have known it for 25. Multifaceted, a true thespian, it has rolled with the changes and given it’s best performances with dignity and elan. Awash with Old World charm (yes, that where it started) and courtesies and young vibrant energies. A versatile space of options.

A hotel where generations of eminent families stayed and generations of the same family also worked.

A hotel of many firsts- Chor Bizarre -iconic restaurant with a car in it, Thugs-The Pub first serving draught beer, India’s First ISO 9002 Hotel . I still have with me a front page advertisment which was published when we got the ISO. Every single employee’s name was on it and we all got a medal for achieving the certification too.

My thoughts have rambled a bit as they flowed on to the page. I have shed tears and like me, every person who knew Broadway, is mourning.

Reincarnations happen in films but encores are real and I fervently hope that after a pause, the show will go on for Hotel Broadway.

Until then and always-thank you for starting off my journey in life.

India Gate- Memories with a Memorial

As a child, when I first heard ‘India Gate”, I assumed like for one’s home, it was a gate for the country. Push it open and walk into another country. Much amusement later, my family explained its origins the best they could, given that I could not understand war, death and war memorials (I still don’t understand war completely but that’s another story)

I first saw it the day I also sat through my first ever Republic Day parade. The troops marched past, the dancers performed and as the fighters flew past, I had my first indelible memories etched strong and deep. Ever since, the sight of India Gate always fills me with pride and evokes great happiness. Perhaps I have memories of running around it as a child. Perhaps because the several roads leading off its periphery lead me to places I like visiting! Definitely because I am a soldier’s daughter and the monument exists as a veneration to them.

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But there are so many layers to the place.

India Gate.  A War Memorial built by the British to honour the bravery of the Indian troops who served in the First World War. A monument built specifically to preserve in memory and to keep

“In the thoughts of future generations “the glorious sacrifice of the officers and men of the Indian Army who fought and fell”. (The King of England’s message when the foundations were laid).

Thus the Punjabis marched shoulder to shoulder with the Royal Fusiliers- in the war they had fought together and engraved on the walls of the monument to immortalise them.

(How very equalising war can be. Where men from different casts and creeds fight united, to protect the lives of people unknown to them. Yet in times of peace, we discriminate.)

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India Gate. Home to the “Amar Jawan Jyoti”. The eternal flame which immortalises in our minds and hearts the unknown Indian soldier who laid down his life so we may live free. The flame  is protected by the serving brethren of the three forces who take in turns to do so.

The Republic Day activities commence by homage at the Amar Jawan Jyoti and the parade thereafter marches around the India Gate, on its way to Red Fort.

Amar Jawan Jyoti

India Gate. A monument in the heart of New Delhi. The lush, well maintained gardens and boating facilities are a favourite family haunt on summer evenings. Balloon vendors, food vendors and a long row of ice cream vendors stand by the road side like a decorative frill and the multitudes descend every evening for an “ice-cream” outing and impromptu picnics.

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The India Gate of today has a no vehicular traffic area around it. One can walk up to it and around it. Tourists gaze at it lit up wonderingly. The three forces stand guard over it round the clock, taking in turns. A child buys popcorn and candy floss. A bunch of youngsters mull over ice cream choices. A couple strolls past chatting quietly. The lawns occasionally play host to cultural events and activities.

There is laughter. Smiling faces. Happiness.

There is freedom.

A fitting tribute then to those in memory of whom India Gate stands today.

(This post was published in the July-August issue of the Salute Magazine)

रमज़ान की एक शाम

 

रमज़ान की एक शाम थी

पुरानी दिल्ली की गलियों से मिलने की चाह थी.

 

पहुंचे हम सब दोस्त वहाँ.

मंदिर की घंटियों और आज़ान का अनोखा ताल मेल है जहाँ.

 

ढलती हुई शाम का था गुलाबी आसमान,

रोशनी में लिपटी थी मस्जिद और मीनार

 Jama Masjid at Dusk

 

नमाज़ की अदायगी

परिवरों की टोलियान.

मुस्कुराहटें .बातें .हंस्ते चहरों की बोलियान.

 The throng at Jama Masjid

टिमटिमाती रोशनी थी हम कदम

चलते-फिरते, रुकते रुकाते

टहलते हुए हम दोस्तों के कदम

Matia Mahal

यहां थी सेवियां,

वहां थी बिर्यानी.

BiryaniSeviyaan

एक मुस्कुराता हुआ लज़ीज़ कोरमा

एक रंगीन मिज़ाज मीठा

Double Ka Meetha

Happy Korma Cook!Korma

Phirni

फिरनी का सकोरा मन हुआ चटोरा

क्या खायें.क्या छोडें.

बड़ी थी कश्मकश.

पकवानों के थे ढेर अनेक.

लेकिन पेट तो था सिर्फ एक!

पहले पेट भरा पर नीयत नहीं

तो आँखों से की हसरत पूरी

अब हिल न सके तो क्या करें

धीरे धीरे चले ,की कसरत थोड़ी!

 

 

बस गयी मन में उन गलियों की रौनक़

बस गया वो स्वाद.

उन मुस्कुराहटों में है अपनापन.

उन गलियों की अनोखी है कुछ बात

timtimati roshni

मंदिर की घंटियों और आज़ान का अनोखा ताल मेल है जहाँ.

गुज़ारी  हमने रमज़ान की  एक खूबसूरत शाम वहां

Reaffirmation

Rajpath

 

Rajpath, New Delhi , India. Sunday, 26th January 2014. The 65th Republic Day of India.

The Su-30 MKI soared into a Vertical Charlie and the crowd roared its approval. As the tri-colour balloons soared and the flags unfurled in the skies my faith in my country reaffirmed itself. Substantially.

I washed away, today, my slowly growing, poisonous cynicism as an Indian with the tears of pride I shed as I viewed, in a lot of glory, an India which was receding into chasms of negativity, in my mind and memory.

Cry I did.

At the tribute to the Amar Jawan. Thank you Unknown Soldier for guarding our freedom. I am grateful.

When the Arjun-MK-II –“Desert Ferrari” Tank rolled past. Home grown. When “Tejas” our first indigenous aircraft took a bow. I am filled with pride.

Every time I saw women in the contingents- as part of, leading, all women and on the tableau. I have hope for those who still suffer.

When the contingents of the services marched past in perfect tandem. I have admiration for your discipline and dedication.

When I saw the crowd of thousands, brave the coldest 26th January in a decade to watch and applaud. It fills me with happiness that the day was still important to so many.

All the colour. All the hard work. All our might. The security personnel guarding us as we watched.

There are a lot of things going wrong in our country today. There also a lot of things going right. Emphasis on the negatives alone can be such a shroud of despair. I resolved today to be a more positive Indian.

SU-30 MKI

Why did I have to write all of this down?

As a record for me to refer at will for time tends to erode memory and I want to hold on to this one particularly. It is also the day I said after a long time-I am proud to be an Indian.

 

The House In Adampur

It stood at the curve of the road. A big house with several bedrooms, a kitchen, a store and a drawing-room. A garden in the front, in which stood tall trees of mulberry (‘shehtut’), scattering their wine coloured-(white and red), sweet and headily scented fruit all over. Indian rose bushes….the “desi gulab” grew in profusion such that my mother tried a very successful hand at several fragrantly sweet bottles of rose sherbet.  The rear garden housed chillies….in three colours and varying levels of spice. Green, red and black!

I also made my acquaintance with “galgals” here. The slightly oval cousins of the lemon, thick skinned and sour, galgal pickles served as an amazing accompaniment to parathas.

Perhaps the first conscious memories of a seven-year old me. The beginning of an informal and invaluable education of a “fauji” child.

This was The House in Adampur.

Mulberries

(Air Force Station Adampur is located 14 kilometres from the city of Jallandar, Punjab. A fighter base under the Western Air Command with Mig 21s (Type 96 in 101 and 37 Squadrons of The Indian Air Force. The year -1980.)